A (surprising) Q&A with celebrated writer Susan Orlean
The prize-winning author dishes on fashion as "a performance," her current guilty pleasure, and why she doesn’t believe in old age.
“I’m fascinated by how fashion evolves and changes (which it does constantly!). What body part is the focus now? What is the silhouette that looks modern today? It’s an art form that anyone can participate in, and that’s what makes it so interesting.” - Susan Orlean
When
joined Substack recently, I immediately signed up for as one of her paid subscribers in order to “get all the goodies,” as she puts it on her About page. I am such an admirer of her work; she’s been a staff writer for The New Yorker since 1992 and is the author of nine books, including the best-selling The Orchid Thief and The Library. Because she promised to offer her paying readers “instruction” about writing, I wanted in. I was delighted when she started her first chat thread and responded to my “hello” message. So I screwed up my nerve and asked if she would consider doing a short Q&A with me about fashion and old age. (Susan is 68 but does not consider herself old.) She responded promptly: “Sure, I’d be happy to do it!” The result is this lovely Q&A with some surprising answers about fashion, style, identity, and aging.As Susan put it in her first Wordy Bird post, “I’ve long wanted to meditate on fashion in a way that’s different from what I’m seeing elsewhere—fashion as memory, fashion as sociology, fashion as three-dimensional functional sculpture that has to stand up to repeated wearing.” I wanted to know more, plus like Susan and many other women (even if we consider ourselves serious and intellectual), I am very interested in clothes, style, and the impacts they have on our day-to-day lives and beyond. More about Susan.
Q&A with Susan Orlean
DW: What feels important to you about fashion and clothes?
SO: First of all, it’s fun—that’s the essence of it for me. And it’s about a kind of performance, in the best sense. Today I want to feel this way or that way, and I costume myself to do that. Or I want to be warm or to be comfortable, and it’s fun to do that successfully.
As an observer, I’m fascinated by how fashion evolves and changes (which it does constantly!). What body part is the focus now? What is the silhouette that looks modern today? It’s an art form that anyone can participate in, and that’s what makes it so interesting.
DW: Has your style changed as you’ve aged and your body has changed? For example, do you avoid wearing sleeveless dresses or blouses like I do?
SO: I don’t wear really short skirts (although, to be honest, I never really liked them). And I don’t wear anything that’s very cropped — but I never really did that even years ago. I refuse to give in to the arm self-consciousness, even if my arms flap and sag a bit. But otherwise I really haven’t changed what I wear. My taste has never been very age-specific, so it still serves me well. I wear what I love, and hope it flatters me, and beyond that I don’t like to worry too much.
DW: What is your guilty pleasure right now when it comes to fashion and buying clothes? I’ll go first: I’m addicted to ordering clothes online, trying them on, and then sending them back for a refund if they don’t fit or I don’t like the style.
SO: Oh, that’s my addiction, too! I find ordering online almost irresistible, but I’m also very good about returning things. In fact, I send them back so fast that it’s dizzying.
(DW: I return instantly too! I worry that these companies will black list me…)
DW: Do you have advice for people working with a limited budget who still want to invest in their style and wardrobe?
SO: I’m not sure investing is the smartest approach—I don’t think it’s wise to overspend because you think you’re buying something that will last you forever. Most things don’t last forever, so you need to be realistic about that. I think the best thing is to buy clothes that really flatter you, regardless of what is trendy. You will always be happiest in those clothes. Have a friend who you really trust to give you honest opinions. Never ever buy anything that you are ambivalent about; those usually don’t work out. Avoid stores where the salespeople push too much. Look at buying vintage or resale: That’s where the great deals are on good, well-designed clothes.
DW: What is your approach to cleaning out your closet? How often do you do it, what do you do with any designer clothes you're no longer wearing, and how do you decide what goes and what stays?
SO: I clean my closet out regularly—I don’t have a big closet, so it’s necessary, plus I really am happier when I clear out things that I no longer like or just don’t use. Anything that can go to TheRealReal gets sent out immediately. I’ve also sent lots of clothes to ThredUp and Linda’s Stuff — they’ll take brands like Zara and J Crew that TheRealReal won’t. Everything else goes to Goodwill. Deciding what to part with is hard. If I haven’t used it in a long time, and don’t feel a lot of pain when I imagine getting rid of it, out it goes.
DW: Do you care what your husband (or son) thinks about what you're wearing? Do you ever modify your outfit for either of them?
SO: I do care about what my husband (and son!) think of what I'm wearing -- they both have great taste, and I'm delighted when they like something I've chosen. At the same time, there are things I like that my husband isn't crazy about but I just override him if I'm happy with it. It's much more fun when he likes something (we all enjoy someone liking the way we look!) and I almost always ask his opinion, especially on something that I'm likely to wear when we go out (versus an everyday item). And on occasion I've returned something when he really advises against it. But sometimes I love it, and I keep it, and that's fine!
DW: What does [b]old age mean to you? How are you thinking and feeling as you approach 70?
SO: I’m an age-denier. I just am me, rather than Me at An Age. I don’t pretend to be some age that I’m not, but I just don’t spend a lot of time thinking about what this age should feel like. I’m still excited about my work, and I’m still trying new things, and I feel fresh and eager. That’s my age, whatever number that may be.
Susan, thank you! I know I speak for many other readers when I say I am so glad you are here on Substack. - Debbie
Two questions for readers
Who in your life do you ask for style advice? When do you “override” their opinion, as Susan sometimes does with her husband?
Are you an age-embracer or age-denier?
I’m 61 and I still have trouble wrapping my head around that number. Most of my friends are much younger than me and the things I’m interested are the same as always. Maybe it’s because I never had children. I wasn’t constantly reminded of the passage of time by having children grow up in front of me.
Style wise I wear what I like. And I’ve been true to that style for most of life. If I ask for advice it’s because I already don’t like it. Or I’m asking if it’s appropriate. I never ask if my ass looks big in X because it’s a big ass. It’ll always look big. And yes it’s nice if my husband comments but I don’t seek his approval. But I do feel pretty great when my 17 year old niece tells me she likes my ‘fit.
I apologise if I am rude, but I think you have framed the question in the wrong way. It’s not whether you accept or deny your age but HOW you do so. I tell anyone who’s listening that I am 82 but I don’t think I act like I am 82. Nor do I think like an old person unless it’s my wisdom you’re after.
As for dressing, yes I will wear a miniskirt but it needs to be an A- line to cover the bulging belly. Mostly it’s T-shirts and jeans ( or, my grannies rolling in their graves) shorts. What I’ve worn all my life.